Engine Removal

Tools Required:

Vise grips - to hold clutch cable end

11mm deep well socket - for clutch nut

3/8 drive ratchet : various

8mm spline tool : c v joint bolts

2 ft extension : c v joint bolts

17mm open end wrench : speedometer cable

Wire cutters: 2 cable ties

1/2 inch drive ratchet - various

13mm socket : 4 transmission mount bolts, ground strap, battery cables

Short 3/8 extension : various

Screwdriver : fuel line, banjo clip, pry loose c v joints, heater hoses

17mm socket: clutch cable roller,

17mm socket: outboard engine mount bolts

17mm open end wrench : 73-76 outboard engine mount bolts

3/4 ton floorjack

2 jack stands

8mm socket : heater control cable set, accelerator cable

10mm open end wrench : accelerator cable

3 inch long 4 mm allen wrench : 74-76 rear shift rod

8mm allen wrench : 70-72 outboard engine mount bolts

Air impact wrench: if available will speed the process

Light machine hammer : shift set screws and c v bolts

2 plastic food storage bags ; c v joints

3/4 inch plywood board approximately 12 x 12 : supporting engine

19mm socket : rear transmission mounting bolts (if needed)

4 piece of plastic fuel line : to connect 7mm fuel hoses together



914 Engine/ transmission (power plant) removal is easy and should take no more than 1/2 hour with the proper tools. (The plant is made to be easily removed!) We remove the power plant, however, only when rebuilding the engine or doing rust/metal work restoration. Clutch replacement, valve adjustment, oil leak repair, (except galley plugs) air conditioning or fuel injection installation/repair, and heat exchanger replacement/repair are done without removing the plant. To remove the power plant, follow this procedure:

1) Disconnect the battery positive cable and separate the red wires from the main terminal lead.

2) Disconnect the two clear yellowed plastic fuel lines from the right injector rail and the fuel pressure regulator hose at the right passenger rear of the engine compartment and connect together with a plastic fuel line to prevent spillage.

3) Remove the air cleaner.

a. 1.7 engines have a center wing nut into the round air cleaner housing and a hose clamp to the black u shaped, ribbed, intake boot.

b. 2.0 engines have a steel rectangular air cleaner clipped to the left, gray, intake runner tube set in two places and a screw clamp at the throttle body.

c. 1.8 models have a rectangular plastic air cleaner to the left drivers side clipped to its base with four clips and clamped via the silver, black topped air flow meter to the s shaped, black intake boot. Remember to unclip and unplug the 6 or 7 pin airflow meter lead. A wing nut under the top filter housing secures the lower 1.8 air filter housing to the body.



4) Remove the left drivers front relay board cover and wiggle loose the 3 prong alternator plug and the 12 pin rear engine harness plug (after removing the u-shaped harness holder).

a. On the 1.7, 2.0 models wiggle loose the 4 prong control unit harness ( at the left rear of the relay board).

b. On the 1.8 models remove the one pin yellow jumper wire coming from the rear engine harness plug (remember that it plugs into the right rear pin when re-installing).



5) Slacken the 8 mm accelerator cable barrel bolt and loosen the 10 mm accelerator securing nut and push the cable down through the right front passenger sheet metal grommet.

6) Remove the 1.7, 2.0 control unit or unclip the 1.8 control unit harness connector.

a. 1.7, 2.0 models require removal of the control unit form the right passenger front battery tray mounting bracket. Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the secondary bracket around the mixture knob to the main bracket and slide the control unit out, resting it on top of the engine.

b. The 1.8 harness to control unit has a release clip at the bottom and the multi pin connector pivots out from the unit, being hinged (hocked) at the top. On the side of the battery stand wiggle loose the four prong square resistor block connector as well as the two square multi-pin connectors from the dual relay.



7) On 73-76 models remove the left and 75-1/2 - 76 models, the right heater blower hose from the left drivers front mounted heater blower motor.

a. If an oil temperature gauge has been installed, remove the beige sheathed lead from its rectangular plastic connector. (This connection is found in front of the battery support into the main harness at the passenger side front engine shelf.) The lead exiting from the main harness is a single green wire with a black stripe.

b. If the car is equipped with air conditioning, recover the freon and then disconnect both a/c hoses from the compressor and unclip the power lead from either the battery terminal (vpc brand system ) or the starter solenoid (DPD) brand system.



8) Jack the car from the center of the engine mounting bar until the bottom of the rear valance is four feet off the ground and rest the car on the jackstands, securely mounted under the two floor pan triangle donuts at the extreme rear ends of the floor pan.

9) Remove the two heater control to body hoses.

10) Remove the two 8mm barrel bolts from the heater control valves and remove the heater control cable lugs from the barrel bolts.

11) Remove the rear shift bar.

a. 70-72 models require removal of the front and rear shift covers and then of the ball bushing stud from the firewall with a 15mm open end wrench. Then remove of the two 13mm nuts from the rear shift bushing triangular holder at the rear transmission tail cover, and finally the four slotted air guide plate screws that cover the shift rod between the heat exchanger and the engine block.

b. 1973-76 914s require first peeling back the front firewall rubber shift boot. Then remove the rear oval shift cover clamp and pivot the shift cover off the rear transmission shift housing. Next, remove the two 4mm allen set screws from the front and rear off of the shift rod. (Always lubricate with penetrant and make sure the allen wrench is sunk deeply into the set screw. You dont want to strip these 4 screws ! With an assistant firmly holding the now loose rear shift rod, firmly and decisively shift the car into first gear at the shift knob. This will separate the rear shift rod from the tunnel rod at the pivot, and the bar can then easily be removed form under the front floor pan. Put the rod and the rear shift head aside.



12) Remove the 17mm nut securing the clutch cable roller, hold the clutch cable end lug with vice grips and completely remove first, the 11mm nyloc nut and then the steel or plastic clutch cable wedge (If it is plastic, by all means renew it with the updated steel one.) Pry out the clutch cable securing banjo clip from the clutch cable roller housing. Clip the two ties that secure the clutch cable to the speedometer cable. Free the cable and push it under the floor pan. On 73-76 models, push the cable first through the hole in the engine mounting bar.

13) Remove the right engine case to heat exchanger air guide plate.

14) Unbolt the speedometer cable from the angle drive with two 27mm open end wrenches and tuck the speedometer cable underneath the floor pan.

15) Remove the 13mm nut holding the rear transmission tailcover ground strap to the right passenger rear bottom of the trunk floor. (Remember to expertly clean or replace this strap firmly when reinstalling the powerplant or bad starter grounding problems will result)

16) Remove the eight CV joint bolts that secure the two joints to the transaxle output flanges and pry the CV joints away from the flange in the slot left when you destroy the CV joint gaskets. Make sure the 8mm spline shaft CV joint tool is firmly sunken into the bolt and assure yourself by tapping it home with a light hammer. Next, plastic bag these greasy joints and secure with rubber bands or tape.

17) Slide the floor jack under the engine case with a 3/4 inch plywood board approximately 12 x 12 and jack until the plywood rests securely against the bottom of the case.

18) Remove the four 13mm head nuts and bolts securing the rear transmission mounts to the body (For reinstallation and alignment it is much easier to remove these than the two 19mm tail cover to transmission mount bolts.)

19) Remove the two large outboard 70-72 8mm allen or 73-76 17mm bolts and nuts from the outboard mounts.

20) With an assistant watching the engine bay for clearance of the injector rails etc., begin to lower the power plant.

a. Guide the two CV axles to rest on top of the transaxle.

b. Balance the engine by holding the rear transmission cover.

c. Lower and pull back on the jack until the engine is firmly resting on the lowered jack.

d. Guide the engine out from under the car as your assistant holds up on the two CV axles.



21) Congratulations ! Youve done it! This is the best time to clean up the engine compartment as well as the powerplant. A shiny engine compartment is a compliment to any 914.



Reinstallation is the opposite but with the following notes:

1) Renew shift bushings as necessary.

2) Clean or renew the rear transmission ground strap and make sure it is firmly connected.

3) Clean thoroughly and lubricate the clutch cable roller and check the cable for stranding.

4) Repack at least the two inner CV joint gaskets and install 8 new cone washers under the bolt heads. Make sure that the four roll pins (two each side) are in place and retorque the joints to 30 ft. lbs.

5) Retorque the four rear transmission mount to body bolts to 20 ft. lbs.

6) Retorque the two outboard 8mm engine bolts to 30 lbs.

7) Inspect rear transmission mounts, 70-72 outboard rubber mounts and inboard 73-76 engine mounts for cracks.

8) Watch the two left and right injector rails for clearance when jacking the power plant into the bay.



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