Clutch Tube Repair Procedure

Tools Required:

Wire Feed Welder




The 914 cable is conducted upon a certain route through the body via a conduit or tube. The tube is bracketed in three places and spot welded so it will not move.

Because of the rigged nature of the clutch cable repair roller assembly, excessive strain is put on the cable and tube when the assembly gets dirty or the clutch cable sheath melts. This strains the brackets and the tube finally pulls loose.

This condition becomes evident when:

1. You have to constantly adjust your cable.

2. Stack washers under the adjusting nut.

3. Experience a standstill grind into first or reverse gear, but the clutch releases "o. k." when the throwout bearing arm is fully depressed at the bell housing.

4. Find the clutch pedal to push extremely hard.

5. Have a problem shifting into fourth and fifth gear.

6. Hear a "pop" and the pedal goes to the floor but the clutch cable doesn't break.

7. "Clanging" in center tunnel when clutch pedal is depressed and released.

8. Ripping of sheet metal at the firewall.



The remedy is simple. Reposition the tube and reweld it. The actual repair is more difficult because the center tunnel must be cut open to access the tube. The repair procedure is as follows:

We first start by removing the clutch and accelerator cables, shift lever assembly, center cushion, floor carpeting and driver's seat. At the left side of the shifter hole, in the tunnel, you can see the accelerator tube stacked on the larger clutch tube. You may at this time notice a shiny spot on the tube near the bottom of the shifter where it has been hitting. Grab the clutch tube and shake it to see if it is loose. Using a flashlight, put your cheek on the center tunnel and look forward to the U bracket holding the two tubes. Measure forward to this point and cut a 3"x4" access door. Open the center cut out towards the front of the vehicle. Locate the clutch tube and old bracket (it is "U" shaped). In an extreme case you will notice the tube has actually slipped forward and you will see, by lack of paint, where the bracket used to cover the tube. You may wish to fabricate and replace the front bracket. Using a wire brush on a drill, clean the metal around the clutch tube were it meets the floor. Grab the tube and push it back and into place. Fill the right side of the tunnel with wet rags to protect the fuel lines. Use a wire feed welder to securely weld the tube to the bracket and the bracket to the body. Be sure to push the tube towards the floor while doing this. Prime and paint before closing the door and welding the cuts. Exercise extreme caution when welding because of the close proximity of the plastic fuel lines. We now move to the back firewall area.

If the tube was completely loose you may have noticed just a hole at the firewall. This may require you to pull the tube back through the firewall. The tube should stick out about 1 1/2" from the firewall. If the firewall has actually imploded, remove the access plate inside the car under the center cushion and with a long screwdriver push out the firewall. Grind all of the braze material off and then push the tube through the opening in the firewall. Take a small pair of vice grip pliers and clamp to the tube to prevent the tube from pulling back into the tunnel. Do not weld at this point. Go to the front access panel and be sure the tube is in its original position. When welding near the firewall you will be very close to the fuel lines but at your own risk it is possible to weld without removing them. This is how to do it. Remove the fuel line grommet from the left side line and place a home made welding shield over the fuel line and into the tunnel - this will isolate the line from weld heat. Then proceed to reweld the tears and the tube solidly using wet rags on the right side to protect the fuel lines. Prime and paint this area thoroughly!

Finally, in an extreme case the center bracket is also broken loose. Cut an additional door here just behind the center brace (Refer to the diagram). Cut to the very beginning of the wiring harness trough and then back 7" lifting this newly cut door to the left. Usually the center bracket/brace is deteriorated so you will have to make a U-bracket with sheet metal. Bend the newly made bracket around the tube and weld this formed bracket to both the tube and the floor. Prime and paint thoroughly. This is also an ideal time to clean and treat this center tunnel area to further prevent rust. Reweld and touch-up the cut doors. Always weld one crack at a time waiting more than ten seconds before welding again. Weld cycles should be cooled with compressed air. (The heat could melt wire, fuel lines, etc.) Monitor inside tunnel to be sure that fire does not occur from paint or sealers. Reinstall all parts, cleaning the clutch roller assembly and lightly greasing the cable. Pay particular attention to the front clevis bushing to make sure the hole in it is not egg-shaped and the clevis pin is not worn!
Upon completion and with proper maintenance you will never again experience the clutch tube problem!



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