2.0 Liter Engine Rebuilding Guide

Although we are stock perfectionists, we at Automobile Atlanta have built hundreds of 914 engines and recommend the following:

I. Since 914's are becoming rarer and more valuable by day and restorers are investing thousands in them, it is best to do as the factory would have done but take extra time. With that considered, we recommend the following:

A. It costs almost as much to rebuild a 1.7, 1.8 as it does a 2.0 engine, and a 914 with an injected 2.0 engine is much more powerful than a 1.7, 1.8 as well as $1500 more valuable. One would have to spend many extra dollars to make a 1.7, 1.8 as powerful as a stock 2.0 engine. Hence, starting with an injected 2.0 engine puts one miles ahead. These engines are cheaper than you may think as we have seen them sell at swap meets and the Porsche Panorama magazine for as little as $400.00. Local junkyards who don't know what they have usually "give away" these engines. Unfortunately used 1.7, 1.8 engines are virtually worthless so don't anticipate being able to sell or trade yours.

B. When rebuilding the 2.0 engine, we are careful to follow the factory manual to the letter. It is self explanatory so we need not cover general rebuilding. However we will cover the specific things the factory does not.

1. The engine case: Has a tendency to warp especially in the middle. Have a competent shop check it and possibly align bore it. This will require special bearings.

a. 75-76 cases are especially prone to warpage beyond saving - especially in the cam shaft bore. These engine cases, if not carefully checked, cause a very hot running rebuilt engine!

b. We take the time to eliminate all casting slag from inside the case and make it as smooth as a baby's butt. We do not know how well this works, but it has to reduce oil turbulence somewhat and let the crankshaft spin easier!

c. Oil Galley plugs: By now many are loose. We repair/replace them with a plumbing tap for a permanent repair. Why rebuild your engine, increase the oil pressure only to blowout old galley plugs and all of the new oil!



2. The crankshaft. Always inspect for cracks and polish and/or cut, but not beyond .25mm! 2.0 crank counter balancing is difficult to do for clearance reasons and is unnecessary below racing RPMs! We do, however, carefully balance the front fan, crank, pistons, rods, flywheel and pressure plate, all as one working unit.

3. The connecting rods: check for straightness and rebush.

4. Camshaft: Always the factory one with a matched timing gear. This is also the only one that works the best with the fuel injection.

5. Lifters: Always the solid factory type as hydraulic ones, although quieter, sacrifice top end power and turn a 914 sports car into an economy car.

6. Pistons and cylinders: Always Mahle or Kolbenschmidt with 8.0 to compression. The NPR kit is no longer manufactured and the last 2.0 variety were actually dished on the top!

7. Cylinder heads: Eight new values and guides, combustion chambers carefully "cc'd" and cut only enough for cleanup (2.0 heads cut too far are garbage-can varieties and new ones are outrageously priced!)

8. Fuel injection: new vacuum line kit, head temp sensor, trigger points, throttle switch. All of the other components, if still operational, we reuse. Additionally use a 0 280 100 037 pressure sensor and an inline 270 ohm resistor between the control unit harness and head temp sensor lead (this combination provides more top end power while still passing an emissions check.



C. Hopefully, by carefully following the factory manual and observing these points, you will drive many successful miles in your 914!



Porsche 928 Alignment Tips
Porsche 993 Alignment Tips
Boxster Bike Rack Installation
Rebuilding the 914 Rear Brake Caliper
Proper Clutch Cable Installation
Porsche 914 Clutch Replacement
Clutch Tube Repair Procedure
Distributor
2.0 Liter Engine Rebuilding Guide
Fuel Injection Operation
WEVO GateShift Installation Instructions
Engine Oil Galley Plug Replacement
Engine Removal
Push Rod Tube Seal Replacement